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LOCH NESS HILLWALKING AND BIRDWATCHING NEWS FROM SHENVAL BED & BREAKFAST
2009 OCTOBER
| In the Highlands of Scotland, above Loch Ness, a very little known minor road has many good birdwatching surprises in store for our Shenval B&B guests. Not only do you need to open and close gates to proceed further but you may come face to face with some strange wildlife encounters. One such occurred on 5th October when our guests were amazed to watch a red grouse showing absolutely no fear at their presence, only yards away from the roadside. Not only that but all the while, the bird never stopped calling and babbling away, resulting in some very close range portraits shot by visitors who were still under the spell hours and days later... |
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SUMMER FORAYS IN GLEN AFFRIC
| You may be an experienced couple of Alpine climbers like our visitors from Dauphiné in early August. They discovered that just plain hillwalking in the Scottish Hills and in those of Glen Affric in particular can take a whole new meaning in the rain. My, did it rain when we all went to Mam Sodhail on 4th August! Some ordinarily insignificant burns were in full spate and nearly impassable and the hillsides were streaming white with water. We got thoroughly soaked despite wearing the so-called breathable, waterproof -"guaranteed"- gear. |
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After a longish shivering lunch on the summit of Màm Sodhail with a nil visibility we eventually decided that the weather forecast had been wrong and it was time to come down back to a dry home. Well, the forecast eventually proved to be right on the way down, a mere 3 hours later than anticipated, and suddenly skies cleared revealing panoramic views and leaving us basking, and drying, in sunshine all the way back to the car.
| Undaunted, we had another foray in Glen Affric on 3rd September. Granted: the forecast was bad. But you never know: it can be wrong sometimes. Along with our regular guests and good friends from Germany, Sabrina and Daniela, we thought wise to keep to lower glens. Just as well: we got soaked. Again. And the skies never cleared. At least we had planned to cross bridged rivers this time... |
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| Third time lucky, a week later: the forecast was promising. Went up to Tom a'Choinich (1111m), just north of Glen Affric, under blue skies and the warm temperatures made the outing a short-sleeved business with the added pleasure of mouthfulls of deliciously ripe blaeberries on the way down. A tinge of red on our faces confirmed it had been a sunny day indeed. |
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MAY
Week ending 15th has been memorable : for the last six days we have been treated to music most nights by one of our visitors, Yves Danion, a Breton piper from Lyons (France) wearing full Highland dress. He has delighted us and our other visitors with traditional Scottish tunes played with gusto on his Highland bagpipes. Even our next door neighbours commented on how impressed they were by the quality of music drifting from Shenval B&B... |
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Monday 4th. Day of high drama. Short glance at the blackbird's nest at mid-day. Nothing showing above the edge of the nest. A closer look reveals an empty nest. A short investigation of the surroundings reveals fresh blood stains on the neighbouring branches and tree trunk. Ominous. Looking around, we soon discover two dead chicks in the undergrowth, within 3 yards of the nest. No sign of the other two chicks while the cock is calling in distress high above. No sign of the hen either. Has a prowling cat done the deed overnight? Or could it be a pine marten? That clutch of birds only lasted 10 short days. Not too surprising with a nest sitting not even 2 feet above ground level.
Afternoon reveals another, more pleasant, surprise. Flutter and panic as soon as we open the door of one of our seldom visited sheds. Standing back from the entrance and after a short wait, we see an adult robin shooting like a bullet out of the darkness. And precisely where we were planning to store some odds and ends sits a sizeable ball of fresh mosses and lichens. This turns out to be the nest of a family of robins with at least one few days old chick. These should fledge: the tiny hole in the shed door will not let in any cat or pine marten.
Friday 1st, nest now full to the brim with chicks whose faint chirps can be heard each time a parent turns up. Eyes now open, so each coming meal is not just anticipated but fully seen. Are these chirps not going to become a give away to marauding predators?
APRIL
We are not little pleased to have contributed to adding the 53rd vegetable to Sadako and Nobukatsu's organic garden in Japan following their visit to Shenval B&B in April. They discovered parsnip at our dinner table and were so enthusiastic about the new taste they bought a packet of seeds in Inverness before flying home. The latest news from Japan is that the new parsnip crop looks promising!
Thursday 30th, barely a week old, blackbird chicks are now dfully feathered and avidly welcome each arrival of parents with fully loaded beaks.
Tuesday 27th, feathers growing well on blackbird chicks wings.
Sunday 26th, truly amazing : chicks have already doubled in size. Plump worms unwittingly doing their growth promoting work...
Friday 24th, last two blackbird chicks hatched today. Cock blackbird has sudenly reappeared and is not failing in its fatherly duties, feeding hen and chicks with fat juicy worms from our garden.
Thursday 23rd, first two blackbird chicks hatched today at far end of our garden. Will have to keep watch over prowling cats now!
Wednesday 15th, noticed blackbird hen sitting on nest. So that's what these two were up to earlier last week!
2008
July 18th. Elated Shenval B&B visitors just back from a dolphin watching trip with Ecoventures in Cromarty - one hour 's drive from your bed and breakfast accommodation at Shenval near Loch Ness - .
2nd July. First ever visitor. At lunchtime we have had the pleasure to observe, for the first time ever in the garden of Shenval Bed and Breakfast, a reed bunting having a sip at our bird bath. A bird more commonly seen by moorland lochs, visibly straying down on the lower ground of Glenurquhart.
12th June. Successful rescue. Relieved to see that over the last three days, the greenfinch hen has been back and forth sometimes resting in the nest. She seems to have settled down to feeding the relocated brood. Against all our expectations. For sure this is a wired up family!
9th June. Successful rescue? Mowing the grass in your garden can lead to unexpected finds like the one we made today: a nest blown down from a tree. A tiny chick is fighting for his life in the tall grass nearby. A thorough investigation reveals a second chick and then a third one, all barely 3 cms long with closed eyes, bulging belly and hardly any down on their backs. If we do not swing promptly into action, the hopeless clutch will surely die. But what do you do? Try and feed them?
Find where the nest has fallen from? Instinctively we carefully spoon each chick from the long grass. Yes: spoon them! And ease them gently back into their nest. Somehow we are fortunate to spot a greenfinch frantically busying itself in the thuyas above. Could this be one of the parents?
This desperate situation calls for a desperate measure. Armed with a stepped ladder, and after having sewn some garden wire ties through the bottom and sides of the nest, Pierre clambers up through the dense branches and find what seems to be a suitable spot. Resting the nest and its very fragile contents in a fork, Pierre securely fastens the dangling wires to neighbouring twigs and branches, hoping that the makeshift contraption will prove resilient enough in the strong wind. Coming down the ladder, a last search in the long grass reveals yet another chick, even tinier that the first three. More improvisation is called for: gingerly holding the spoon and its delicate content, up the ladder again and the chick is successfully reunited with his siblings. Time to tidy up and to wonder whether the unfortunate parents will ever reclaim a nest that has obviously changed location. Fingers crossed...
Well, two hours later, we spot a greenfinch hen on the nest. Will she care to stay after all this upheaval?
24th April. Gold rush and empty pockets. Dropped in Timespan in Helmsdale, a museum of Highland life in Sutherland which traces the 19th and 20th century harsh way of life of the local population. Eyewitness accounts of the period illustrate the heartless policies of the originators of the infamous Highland Clearances. Even the short-lived 1869 gold rush of the Strath of Kildonan bore the mark of the greed of the local aristocracy. Timespan is well worth a visit.
Driving on to the north coast of Sutherland through Kinbrace and Strathnaver confirmed the devastating effect the Highland Clearances have had -and still have- on the landscape and economy: mile after mile of empty treeless countryside next to thousands of acres of blanket industrial and sterile afforestation, ruins everywhere, everpresent populations of red deer and virtually no human presence. How today's descendants of those evicted from the inland straths can make a living on the hostile windswept coastline remains a mystery. Here human protection does not match that offered to wildlife that is also clinging to a degraded environment.
Ironically, wildlife conservation seems to be one of the very few activities that keeps a tenuous human population going in what has become a wet desert: countryside rangers on the coast and bird reserve wardens inland like those of the RSPB in Forsinard, a place worth a stop for nature lovers. Spotted our first swallows in Tongue and were lucky enough to spy on the activities of a water rail -a secretive bird often heard but rarely seen- by the road side. A walk on the shoreline in pleasantly warm sunshine gave us sightings of two great northern divers, a pair of eiders and two black guillemots while larks warbled high in the spring skies.
March 31st. Strange encounter in the Highands of Scotland. Driving down Glenurquhart a red squirrel runs across the road just in front of us. Head for the Coulin pass, a new place for us. Lots of snow on all surrounding shapely hills, down to 500 metres. Bright sunshine that will leave us with a hint of sunburn by the end of the day. By Loch Coulin the view over to the whole range of snow smothered Beinn Eighe is spectacular. The first lark of spring can be heard and seen over the low ground where two Highland ponies peacefully graze. Heading back over to Coire Lair, we fall under the spell of the magnificent remnants of Caledonain pine forest now wisely protected by very high deer fence exclosures. These ancient woods hem the tumultuous, crystal clear waters of the Eas Dorcha, a stream with a beauty to match that of torrents in the Alps. A sickle-shaped bird of prey -could this be a peregrine falcon?- calls way up in the skies.
Our last sight of deer for today proves to be very puzzling: 10 yards from us, a hind grazes, unperturbed by our presence. We stand still for what seems like an eternity and are so close we can detail her every eyelash, every hair, every moving muscle, every ear movement... Every now and then this hinds looks up at us and goes on grazing as if we were merely part of the scenery, showing no sign of fear, no nervousness. As we eventually decide to move away from her, she starts to follow us and will do so for over half a mile, leaving us to ponder whether, for once, it is us, human beings, who are being stalked. Very strange encounter indeed.
March 16th. Where else could you see so much wildlife in a single afternoon? We have been more than rewarded with our foray to Loch Fleet and the heights of Golspie. The sand banks of Loch Fleet displayed no less than 71 grey seals of various sizes and shades sunning themselves between wintry showers. Several hundred greylag geese, a couple dozen whooper swans and numerous seabirds (oystercatchers, redshanks, wigeons, cormorants, etc.) completed this scene. Past the "Mannie on the Hill" towering above Golspie, we ventured for a couple of hours in open moorland and were rewarded again with the sighting of well over 80 red deer hinds, stags and calves sheltering from the wind by a small loch. The exhilaration, though, came with the discovery of the aptly named Big Burn gorge: a wild meandering watercourse, complete with bobbing dippers and hemmed in by steep cliff faces with finely crafted wooden bridges hopping from bank to bank, under a canopy of semi-natural ancient woodland with a rich undergrowth of ferns and mosses. A serene atmosphere enveloping Golspie under a salmon red sky greeted our return by the sandy shoreline.
March 5th, a blessing in disguise. Our 13 year old dishwasher has just given up the ghost. A good opportuny for us, in line with our drive to reduce our impact on the environment, to acquire a new energy and water saving replacement. Our brand new AAA rated dishwasher ranks among the best currently available and only uses 11 litres of water and 0.8Kw of electricity on its Eco cycle, against our previous wasteful 16 litres/1.5Kw. The washing results are even more satisfactory, so we are quite chuffed about this newcomer to our house!
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